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Baja 2000
These are photographs
from a foray into the Baja peninsula in February 2000. My wife
Sue, my daughter Erica, and my friends John and Patricia climbed into
the Chevy Tahoe and we moseyed a little more than halfway down the
peninsula as far south as Santa Rosalia, which is about 600 miles south
of the border along Mexico's Transpeninsular Highway 1. We covered
1500 miles in 4 days. I used my N70 Nikon with three Sigma lenses
(the 28-70, the 70-300, and the 50mm EX macro).
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Here's the crew just south
of Ensenada, where the real Baja begins. The Tahoe ran like a
champ on the entire trip. John used my N70 to grab this shot of
Sue and me next to the Tahoe. Life is good... |
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These photos show Sue and
Erica silhouetted against a Cardone cactus, which is similar to the
Saguaro we U.S. citizens are more used to seeing in Arizona. I
took these pictures just as the sun was starting to go down in the
Vizcaino desert. The first photograph shows the girls with the
cactus in the background. |
| The second Cardon
photograph (which shows Sue and Eri next to the same plant) provides a
better sense of just how large these cacti are. This is only a
moderate one. Some of the Cardone cactus are 50 or 60 feet tall.
They are amazing plants. |
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When you travel in the
Baja peninsula, the best hotels are in the La Pinta chain. They
average about $60 or $70 for a room, which is cheap by U.S. standards
but expensive in the Baja. Most of the other hotels are in the $20
to $25 range, but the accommodations are, well, not five star. This
is the La Pinta courtyard fountain in Catavina. |
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We spent our
first night in Catavina, which is a full day's drive from the border.
Catavina is a very interesting area, surrounded by boulder fields.
I will visit the area again to photograph the fields. They look as
if they belong on another planet.
Our next
stop was in San Ignacio, which would be our jumping off point to watch
the whales. San Ignacio is a beautiful little town.
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| The mission in San
Ignacio. You could easily spend a full day here photographing the
town and its mission. |
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| After we had
checked into the San Ignacio La Pinta hotel, we drove another 60 miles
or so to the southernmost town we would hit on this visit: Santa
Rosalia. Santa Rosalia, situated on the Sea of Cortez, was a copper
mining town until the copper played out. Today it is a fishing
community. |
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This is a very interesting
church in the center of Santa Rosalia. It is unlike any of the
others I had seen in Mexico. Does the architecture look familiar?
This church
was designed by Gustave Eiffel, the same man who designed the Eiffel
tower. Santa Rosalia's church was originally designed for an
African nation, with its all-metal construction designed to resist
termites. Apparently the people in the African town did not like
it. Eiffel was visiting Santa Rosalia to assess their copper, so
he brought the church along and it was erected here instead of in
Africa.
This was a
tough photograph. The front of the church (as you see it here)
faces east, and the sun was setting behind it when I photographed it.
I metered on the front of the church with the N70.
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| The interior of Santa
Rosalia's Gustav Eiffel-designed church. I found myself wishing I
had the Nikon 24-120 lens. I could have used the extra 4mm over
the 28-70 Sigma I used for this photograph.
The stained glass windows
at the west end of this church were really beautiful, as you can see in
the photograph below.
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Here's a better
photograph of the stained glass windows in the Santa Rosalia church.
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Moonrise
on the Sea of Cortez.

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I shot this photograph
leaving Santa Rosalia with the N70 on a tripod, in the Aperture mode,
just as the moon was emerging.
The moon had an orange
glow, which I knew would disappear as soon as the moon moved much
further above the horizon (and it did only moments after this picture).
You can get on a ship and
sail east for 19 hours (toward the moon), and you will be on the other
side of the Sea of Cortez (which is mainland Mexico).
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| We had a few
Tecates and a good night's sleep in the date palm groves in San Ignacio,
and then it was on to the town square in the morning to get in a beat-up
old van for the 60-kilometer bumpy and dusty dirt road ride to San
Ignacio Lagoon. We shared the van with a family from England.
It's funny thing: On all my trips to Baja, I have typically
seen more visitors from other nations than the United States, even
though we are Mexico's next-door neighbor. Some day, when the
secret of the Baja's beauty gets out in the U.S., this place will be
deluged with visitors. Right now, that situation doesn't go much
further south than Ensenada, but it will. This is an amazing
place.
Okay, enough
philosophizing...on to the whales!
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Captain Ahab and
her first mate...
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Thar she
blows!

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We were very excited when
we saw the first whale spout. In a few minutes, they were popping
up all around us, like lawn sprinklers when the timer kicks in. |
| A California gray whale,
up close and personal... |
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Dr. Porsche, eat your
heart out.... |
| The adult whales are about
50 feet long. The boats are about 18 feet long.
As Jonah said, you do the
math....
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Our boat
and its captain.
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The
California gray whales migrate from Alaska to the Baja lagoons every
year to mate and have their babies. The herd (estimated to total about
21,000 worldwide) was hunted to near-extinction when the whalers
discovered these lagoons in the 1850s, but the Mexican government
stepped in to protect the whales. The herd is believed to be at
pre-whale-hunting levels now. This is their life, migrating
annually between Alaska and Mexico. They don't live anywhere else.
To say that
the whales are amazing would be an understatement. They are
magnificent, and they appeared to be as curious about us as we were
about them. The whales and their calves came right up to our
boats, rolling over in the water to see us better. They were
playful. One blew a bubble underneath us that was almost as big as
our boat. We saw several hundred during the three hours we were in
the lagoon. We heard estimates that there were as many as 5,000
whales in San Ignacio Lagoon while we were there.
This was one
of the most fun things I've ever done.
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We had a little rain on
the last day during our drive back to the Estados Unidos, but it was
worth it: We saw three or four rainbows that day. The colors
in these Mexican rainbows were very vivid, far more so than any others I
have seen anywhere else in the world. This is actually a double rainbow
(you can just make out the second rainbow above the first one). I
had never seen rainbows before that revealed both ends at the same time. |
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Always the
ham...
Traveling
through the Baja peninsula with a camera is my idea of a good time.
If any of
you have plans to visit the Baja and you would like more information
about where to stay, what to look for, etc., let me know what I can do
to help by sending me an e-mail.
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