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Baja 2007
The Baja peninsula is one of life's great
adventures. It's a mystical place, largely undeveloped, with awesome roads and
incredible scenery. I've been lucky enough to have
traveled through a lot of the world, and I think that nothing compares to
Baja.
This particular Baja adventure was one of
the best road trips I've ever taken, and I hope the photos below will
convey how much fun I had. I and three of my good friends at Layne
rolled south into the Baja peninsula on our motorcycles to see the whales,
soak up some scenery, give the bikes and the cameras a good workout, and
generally just have a great time. There's nothing like a good road
trip to toss aside the trivial things in life, and in my opinion, Mexico
does it better than any place else.
I shot all of the photos on this page using
my D200 Nikon with an older 24-120 Nikon lens and a 12-24 Tokina
lens. Nearly all of the shots used a circular polarizer, and nearly
all were shot at ISO 100.
I have to warn you up front...there a lot
of photos on this page. This was a great trip, though, and I wanted
to include all of the highlights.
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Paul rented his
Harley-Davidson in San Diego, as he had done a couple of years ago when we
did the Pacific Coast Highway ride.
I remembered the lizard at
Eagle Rider's the last time I was in their shop about two years ago, so I
asked about him when I entered the store.
"Yep, he's still
here," Natalie told me (you'll see more of Natalie in a minute).
Meet Harley, who hangs out in
the back. |
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Harley is one big lizard.
He didn't seem at all bothered by me taking his picture.
The people who work at the rental shop told me that
Harley hangs around like a house cat, but they warned me not to try to pet
him. I needed no
encouragement. This thing looked like something out of a 1950's
monster movie. |
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Check out the detail in
Harley's eye.
I'd say that 24-120 lens did a pretty good job. |
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Natalie, who rented the
Fatboy to Paul.
She has pretty eyes, too.
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Natalie's tattoo.
You meet interesting people on a trip like
this. We hadn't even left the Eagle Rider rental place and the trip
was shaping up nicely. |
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Luis, who kept an eye on our bikes while we visited La
Bufadora. |
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Paul, always on the lookout for
a good deal...
You can buy any of these medications over
the counter in Mexico. |
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La Bufadora's claim to fame...the blow hole.
There's an underground
passageway in the rocks that vents to the atmosphere. When the waves
come crashing in, this passageway channels the water straight up. |
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Paul and his Harley-Davidson Fatboy.
See those clouds in the background?
We were going to get up close and personal
with them a bit further down the road.
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Clint Eastwood, on a velour
painting at La Bufadora.
The D200 Nikon and my old
24-120 lens did a pretty good job picking this up. |
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Little shark heads for sale a La
Bufadora.
I guess people buy this stuff.
What would you do with something like this?
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A colorful parrot for sale in La
Bufadora. |
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Cowboy boots, hecho en Mexico.
We grabbed some fish tacos for lunch in La
Bufadora, and then we continued south.
We didn't know it yet, but we were in for
some rough weather that afternoon... |
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Paul was soaked worse than the
rest of us when we reached Mama Espinosa's. His Fatboy had no
windshield, and we waited too long to put on our rain gear.
Paul's red leather gloves did not have color fast
dye.
The rain soaked through Paul's leathers, including his gloves, and
turned his hands bright red. |
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The kitchen staff at Mama
Espinosa's, displaying the lobsters this restaurant is famous for. |
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Mama Espinosa's specialty, lobster burritos.
The boys tell me these are really good. |
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Dave getting his camera out
of the trunk on his FJR1300 Yamaha. |
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My Triumph Tiger.
This is a wonderful motorcycle, possibly
the best one I've ever owned. |
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We stopped in Catavina at the
La Pinta hotel for a
cup of coffee and to top off the bikes.
Here's Paul standing by his
Harley-Davidson.
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My Tiger. It's a
three-cylinder, 955cc, fuel-injected adventure bike.
This is a great motorcycle. It can
easily cruise at over 100 mph, it has plenty of ground clearance, it has a
comfortable seating position, it gets between 40 and 50 miles per gallon,
and with its 6.4-gallon gas tank it has a cruising range well over 200
miles (which is a good thing to have in Baja). I bought it from Doug
Douglas Motorcycles in San Bernardino. |
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Paul and his Fatboy Harley-Davidson, somewhere between El Rosario and Guerrero Negro. |
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We spoke to a surfer couple
for a bit while we were enjoying Tony's fish tacos.
They had a Sharpai, who made
me a little nervous sniffing around the motorcycles (especially when he
went near my Tiger).
A long time ago, I had a 1979
Electra Glide, which was easily the worst motorcycle I ever owned.
The Harley dealer in those days had a St. Bernard, who one day decided to
relieve himself on my rear wheel. I thought that was a pretty bad
thing to do, although that motorcycle was so bad I often thought about
doing the same thing myself.
That St. Bernard set a canine
precedent. After that mutt did his thing, wherever I parked
that old Harley, it would attract other dogs and they would do the same.
Anyway, this Sharpai had much
better manners, or he realized Triumph is a much better motorcycle, or
both. |
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Manuel, who knows how to make a
Margarita. |
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A seafood casserole at the La
Pinta in Guerrero Negro.
They served it in a hollowed-out pineapple. It looked pretty
good.
We sure weren't hurting for food on this
trip. |
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We rolled over to Malarrimo's early the next
morning.
I grabbed this shot of the Fatboy's 88-cubic-inch
Twin-Cam engine while we were waiting for Malarrimo's restaurant to open for
breakfast. |
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Malarrimo's runs a first
class operation.
They offer whale watching
trips, and they have a hotel and a restaurant in Guerrero
Negro.
They do a great job. |
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On our way in our little boat to see the whales.
You could feel the excitement in the air. This was going to be a
lot of fun.
The mature whales are actually about twice the length of these tiny
boats.
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Here ya go....what we came down to see.
A California gray whale, up close, but not as close
as we would get in just a bit.
This gray whale is a baby. It's only about 12 feet long. |
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The calf in front is venting (you can just see the mist
above its nostrils).
That's its momma in the foreground.
You can only see a little bit of both animals here.
The momma whale was huge. She looked like a submarine. |
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Here's the little one, coming in for a closer look.
Momma never strayed far away. She kept an eye
on things making sure it was safe for the little one.
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Here's the calf checking us out.
The whales took a few
minutes to warm up to us.
After that, they were very
playful.
This one in particular was like a
puppy.
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Another shot of the baby. |
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Here's the mother whale and the baby. The mother
was huge. |
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More cavorting. |
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A couple of us actually got to pet the whales. |
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Mama, coming in for a closer look. Sometimes they
stand straight up in the water. They call this
"coning." Check out the barnacles. |
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The mother whale wanted to play for a little bit, too.
The whales are huge, and
if they wanted to, they could probably do serious damage to our boat and
to us.
We never felt threatened, though. We
felt a connection to the whales, and we felt entirely at ease being this
close to them.
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The baby whale, giving us one last look before calling
it a day. |
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After seeing the whales, we
made another quick stop at Antonio's for a fish taco, and then we were
back on the Transpeninsular Highway headed south.
Our next stop was in San
Ignacio, an oasis in the Baja peninsula's Vizcaino Desert.
This is the lagoon in San
Ignacio. That's a dormant volcano in the background.
Those palm trees are date
palms. The Jesuits introduced date farming to San Ignacio several
hundred years ago. |
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Another interesting shot of the
lagoon at San Ignacio. |
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One of the figurines inside
the San Ignacio Mission. |
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And another. |
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A stone cross outside the
church. |
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Dave, taking a break in front
of his room in Santa Rosalia.
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Santa Rosalia was developed as a
copper mining town by the El Boleo Company (a French mining
concern).
The copper played out back in the 1970s,
but there were still numerous pieces of equipment scattered throughout the
town. |
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More mechanical equipment in
Santa Rosalia. |
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In front of our rooms at the
Frances Hotel. Everything was made of beautiful wood. |
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Check out the fine wood paneling
in the Francis Hotel lobby. |
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A very well worn .38 Special
Smith and Wesson revolver.
I asked the policeman who was wearing it in
Santa Rosalia if
I could take a picture of his gun.
He was happy to let me do so.
I asked what caliber it was and he took a
single corroded cartridge out of his pocket.
I couldn't help but think of the old Andy
Griffith show...I was talking to Santa Rosalia's version of Barney Fife!
I'm always amazed at people who ask me if
I'm afraid to ride in Mexico. The typical question is something
along the lines of "Aren't there banditos down there?"
I've never seen a bandito, other than in a
few Frito Lay commercials a couple of decades ago...
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This is the church in Santa
Rosalia. It was designed by Gustav Eiffel, the same guy who did the
Eiffel Tower. |
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Paul in the Santa Rosalia
church. |
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The famous El Boleo bakery in
Santa Rosalia.
We stopped in for cookies
after having a dinner at the El Muelle restaurant.
The cookies were great.
These nice ladies graciously
allowed me to take their picture. |
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We were up early the next
morning, and we left Santa Rosalia just after sunrise. |
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On the Transpeninsular
Highway, between Santa Rosalia and Catavina.
We saw a few guys on
dirt bikes while we were down there. |
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Dave and Paul in front of a few
cirio plants. These weird plants only grow in the Baja peninsula. |
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A close up of one of these
wild cirio plants. |
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A typical shot along the
Transpeninsular Highway. The scenery was awesome. We didn't
always obey the signs... |
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My obligatory artsy shot.
I love that HJC carbon fiber helmet. Light, comfortable, classy, and
the visor doesn't steam up in cold weather. |
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Our final night was in San
Quintin, and we had to take a dirt road for a few miles to get to the Old
Mill Hotel.
I'd never stayed here before
(in fact, I didn't even know it existed prior to this trip), and it was a
very pleasant surprise. I know I'll be back.
The rain from a few days
earlier had left a few monster puddles. Here's Dave after rolling
through one of the big ones. |
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This restaurant was next to the
Old Mill Hotel, right on San Quintin Bay. |
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I tried to stay on my healthy
diet, and I had grilled red snapper.
I probably could have passed on the butter,
though.
It was delicious. |
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Dave's dinner was this
magnificent shrimp linguini. |
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A little bit of sea salt, a
little lime, a bottle of Tecate...
Incredibly, that very night, we saw another
whale cavorting just beyond this railing in San Quintin Bay. |
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My Tiger was starting to look
like it had spent a few days in Mexico.
This is at the Old Mill Hotel in San
Quintin. |
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What would Mexico be without
Mariachi singers? These guys sang for us for awhile. We gave
them a good tip and called it a night. |
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| We were up early the next
morning with a serious case of "get-home-itis." I didn't
take a single photograph that last day...we were all intent on making the
border, getting through the post-9/11 mess that has become the border
crossing from Mexico back into the United States, and burning up the last
120 miles back to our homes after crossing the border. We made good
time. We stopped at the Rosarito Beach Hotel for lunch, burned up
the road, and split lanes in the mile or so of backed up cars waiting to
get back into the US. Splitting lanes there probably saved us a good
three hours getting back across the border. After that, it was a
quick blast home. I've had a lot of folks ask me about the photos,
and here they are. We had a marvelous time, and I hope my
photographs give you a hint of what this trip was like. |
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